Dancing With Snow and Stories: Pawan’s Thrillophilia Review of Kashmir Great Lakes Trek
“Sometimes you find yourself in the middle of nowhere, and sometimes in the middle of nowhere, you find yourself.” That pretty much sums up my journey on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek.
It was a trip that had been sitting on my bucket list for a while, but little did I know that I’d come back with more than just memories. The sheer beauty of Kashmir is overwhelming, and the trek—oh, it’s a masterpiece painted by nature itself.
The Land of Golden Meadows
Our adventure began in Sonamarg, also known as the ‘Meadow of Gold’. The moment I stepped foot there, I understood why it is called so.
Lush green fields stretched out endlessly, and every blade of grass seemed to shimmer in the sunlight.
The distant mountains stood guard over the valley, while the Sind River flowed alongside us, its waters sparkling under the sun like liquid diamonds. Sonamarg felt like a dream. It was that kind of place where time seemed to stop, and you just wanted to stand still and breathe it all in.
There was this fluttering kind of feeling in my stomach. At that very moment, I felt like a little kid and all I wanted to do was run, run like a kid.
And the Landslide Drama…
However, as beautiful as the trail was, not everything came without a challenge. Somewhere between Nichnai and Vishansar Lake, the trail took a terrifying twist. We had been warned about landslides in June, but nothing really prepares you for the moment you see the earth slipping beneath your feet.
The path ahead was narrow, and below us, a steep drop that made my heart race. Just as we were cautiously navigating the rocky terrain, a minor landslide began.
My friend and I exchanged a nervous glance, both of us trying to mask the fear bubbling up. But as they say, fear pushes you forward, and in that moment, with some steady steps and a lot of focus, we managed to move ahead safely.
There’s something exhilarating about overcoming a moment like that.
And all I could think was– Trust your feet Pawan, just trust.
The Demon’s Domain
One of the most fascinating parts of the trek was the day we reached Gadsar Lake. Known for its eerie beauty, this lake has a legend that sends shivers down your spine.
According to local lore, Gadsar is believed to be the "Lake of Demons." It’s said that the lake holds a mythical creature that pulls anyone who swims too close to its centre into the depths. He told us that some villagers claim to have seen mysterious lights flickering over the lake at night.
Anyway, as the cold night wrapped around us, I lay in my tent. Every sound of the wind or rustling outside made my heart race.
I don’t think I slept that night at all—thanks to both the altitude and my overactive imagination!
While there were moments that tested my nerves, there were also parts of the trek that I had been eagerly anticipating. Crossing a glacier was one of them.
As we moved from Gadsar to Satsar, I knew this was the day I had been waiting for. I’d read about the glaciers on this trek and couldn’t wait to experience one for myself.
When we finally reached the glacier, it was even more thrilling than I had imagined. Stretching out before us was an expanse of snow and ice, glistening under the sun.
Equipped with trekking poles and guided by our experienced team, we began the crossing. I was filled with excitement, taking slow, small steps across the icy terrain. I think it was at that moment, standing on the glacier, that I realised how far I had come, both literally and figuratively.
Nights Under the Stars
One of the most magical parts of this trek was camping. Every night, we set up tents in the most breathtaking locations—whether it was by the shimmering lakes or tucked into green meadows.
I’ll never forget the night we camped near Gangabal, a pair of twin lakes that reflect the surrounding mountains in perfect symmetry. The air was crisp, the sky was littered with stars, and all I could hear was the sound of the wind dancing through the valley.
Little Treasures, Lasting Memories
As much as the trek was about nature, it was also about the people we met along the way. In Nichnai, I stumbled upon an old man selling apples. Fresh and sweeter than any apple I’d ever tasted—perhaps because they were nurtured by the very land that seems kissed by gods. I couldn’t resist buying a few for the trail ahead.
Later, at one of the quaint hamlets we passed, I found a lady selling handmade earrings. They weren’t flashy, just simple, delicate pieces that somehow reminded me of home. Funny how, amidst towering mountains and untamed rivers, something as small as a pair of earrings can connect you back to your everyday life.
Oh, and the shawl. I remember it vividly. I got it from a local woman near Vishansar Lake. She told me it was made from Pashmina wool and wove tales of warmth in every thread. She put the shawl into a ring, apparently to identify the authenticity of a Pashmina shawl.
Wrapping myself in it at night was like having a piece of Kashmir with me.
A Heart Full of Memories
On the last day, we made our descent back to Naranag, leaving behind the lakes, the mountains, and a piece of my heart.
Walking alongside nomadic hamlets and traditional Kashmiri homes, it felt like we were bidding farewell to an old friend.
Would I do it again? In a heartbeat! Because Kashmir, with its great lakes and grand mountains, truly is heaven on earth.
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